By Osheen Arakelian
Arnold & Son one of the most prestigious horological houses in England has released 2 new variants of their UTTE ultra-thin tourbillon wristwatch. The UTTE is part of Arnold & Son’s Instrument Collection and is known for its amazingly thin tourbillon and off centre dial design. The UTTE is easily recognizable when you look at the face with the use of an off centre hours and minutes design with the tourbillon sitting just underneath it, making up the rest of the face. The 2 new models have the same dial design but are finished using 2 different case materials. The palladium version is light grey and silvery opaline while the red-gold version is made of 18-caret gold finished in a white dial with a silver hue.
The most impressive feature of the UTTE has always been the ultra-thin movement that is world-renowned as being one of the thinnest wristwatches ever produced. The result of several years of research and development, it boasts some impressive features and is truly a work of art.
The movement is just 2.97mm thick and is housed inside an 8.34mm thick case, meaning it also houses one of the thinnest tourbillon movements as well (truly an impressive achievement). Also, the size of the tourbillon cage makes a big statement on the dial measuring in at a mammoth 14mm in size, which covers almost half of the dial. The movement itself is the exclusive Calibre A&S8200 ultra-thin hand-wound movement with 29 jewels an over 90-hour power reserve. All the movements are created in either 18-carat red-gold or palladium and finished in a colour that compliments the case colour with a different Cotes de Genève pattern to finish it off (we’re all a sucker for detailing let’s be honest). Also, the Tourbillon Bridge is entirely hand-engraved by a master engraver, which adds that extra detailing and really shows off the workmanship that goes into every piece.
The rest of the watch features what you would expect to find in such a high-end luxury wristwatch with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating used on both sides of the case along with hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather choice of strap.
Beautiful additions to the already impressive Instrument Collection by Arnold & Son, the UTTE oozes elegance and class that only a company like Arnold & Son can provide. For more info, please visit arnoldandson.com
- Calibre: A&S8200
- Exclusive Arnold & Son ultra-thin tourbillon movement, one-minute flying tourbillon, hand-wound, 29 jewels, diameter 32 mm, thickness 2.97 mm, tourbillon cage diameter 14mm, power reserve over 90 h, 21,600 vibrations/h
- Functions: hours, minutes, tourbillon
- Movement decoration: 18-carat red gold case model: nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with Haute Horlogerie
Skeletonizing a watch is not an easy feat. And it is doubly difficult for an ultra-thin movement, mainly because the motion is already so sparse that removing any more substance is bound to influence structural rigidity. Because of this, the A&S8200 calibre from the Arnold & Son UTTE Skeleton watch needed to be completely redesigned and re-engineered. The result is that the A&S8220 calibre, which measures 3.3mm thick. The extra thickness, according to Arnold & Son, is imperative to ensure rigidity as they hunted to skeletonized the movement. Still, let us face it, 3.3mm for a tourbillon motion with two barrels and a power reserve of 90 hours is seriously impressive.The new A&S8220 calibre boasts a few major revisions. As an example, the principal plate was heavily altered to reveal as much as you can of the inner workings. But perhaps what’s most visible to owners is that the tourbillon cage has been totally reworked to show off more of the mechanism when retaining the three-dimensional design which has become a signature of this sooner Arnold & Son UTTE watch. Additionally, the tourbillon cage is relatively large when compared with the movement. This implies it is the single most dominating component of the dial, and in addition to this is the simple fact that the crate is fully hand-polished and chamfered, making it a true visual treat for owners.And because you would anticipate, the A&S8220 calibre can also be treated to the finest haute horlogerie completing: The main plate and bridges are constructed using nickel silver and completed with C?tes de Genève rayonnantes; The borders will also be polished and chamfered; The steel components, components, and ratchets are all satin-finished with their edges polished and chamfered; The screws have bevelled and polished heads, and ultimately, the stones are placed in polished countersinks; Reading of the period is done off a sapphire disk with printed numerals at 12 o’clock; The hour and minute hands are golden and characteristic white lacquered hints.
Finishing: unique hand-engraved tourbillon bridge, hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, circular satin-finished wheels with hand-chamfered and polished edges, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. Tourbillon cage: satin-finish with chamfered and polished edges.
- Movement decoration: palladium case model: nickel-silver movement, NAC grey treated with Haute Horlogerie
Finishing: hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève, circular satin-finished wheels with hand-chamfered and polished edges, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. Tourbillon cage: satin-finish with chamfered and polished edges.
- Dial: silvery-white and silvery opaline / light-grey and silvery opaline
- Case: 18-carat red-gold / palladium, diameter 42 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30m
- Strap: hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather
Osheen Arakelian – Contributing Writer
Drawing on a lifelong love of horology and a more recent introduction to appreciation of fine whisky, Osheen brought the two together with watch & whisky. He is proprietor of the site, which covers everything related to watches and whisky. In between completing a degree in commercial law and supporting a rich social life, he is out and about attending all the latest watch and whisky events Sydney has to offer. His passion has also taken him around Australia attending a number of events and he hopes to continue his career in the watch industry on a more serious level after he graduates. Read his articles here.