Here’s some food for thought: when was the last time a luxury watch offered by one of those big-big brands looked genuinely more costly than it actually was? Too bad it isn’t as great as it could be, somehow.
Is a little under $27k far too much, or can it be the bargain of the century for an extensively skeletonized, modern-sized Cartier men’s wristwatch in steel? When I look at the all-steel bracelet and case that is of identical refinement at the 6,900″routine” Santos that was also introduced at SIHH 2018 and also this piece — and a host of other permutations to the Santos that we coated hands-on here — I believe near-27 big ones is quite a stretch.
So what’s with this new slice? It needs to be stated that this sort of watch is not something you see everyday in manufacturers of Cartier-magnitude — when they do appear, they do this using a high-five-figure price tag plus a non double-digit limited edition run. Cartier womens’ bracelet replica watches apparently realized its in-house potential in regards to producing bridges and plates and went berserk with one of its recognized hand-wound calibers. Cartier didn’t state this but then again they did not have to, since I had the gut instinct that this by every opportunity will not be an all-new motion but rather, a hollowed-out spin on a few of its existing calibers — one of many smart moves to keep prices and the final price down.
Therefore, I discovered the 9611 MC Cartier caliber in the steel Cartier Santos De Cartier women’s initiative awards replica watches Skeleton to be predicated on the 96xx MC household of moves (I had no idea what this caliber has been called before just now, but the layout of these bridges and skeletonization was telling me that this must really be based on something pre-existing). Only look at the 9602 MC and you’ll realize the very same design of keyless works, equipment train, jewels, screws, etc — although that particular motion has a huge date feature fitted onto its dial facet, the caseback appears indistinguishable.
The curved front crystal does not provide the best viewing experience. I found it distorts or just simply isn’t sharp when viewed from some angles — rather than because of its curved shape, but instead its overall quality which doesn’t provide as crisp a view as some other watches like, for example, Grand Seikos do. Having shot over 70,000 watch images with the same camera and lens installation (and many thousands more on a preceding camera) I can now let when I screw something up in my photography and once it’s the crystal that just isn’t as great as it might be.
The concluding gets better the closer you are getting. That is because the very first impression from afar is that of a machined look, together with the extensive brushed surfaces along with the industrial ambiance enforced by the gray wheels and springs and gears that peek back at you from inside. The anglage however is nicely done, even if that also has an unmistakably machined look. If those are done by hand, then Cartier repair fake watch has to take my apologies — and perhaps encourage us to visit the manufacture and find out how these are done over there… Because if I follow the shiny lines along the edges of the plates exactly what I see will be a CNC machine running together — and not a craftsman sitting there with a tiny tool hand-polishing these edges. It needs to be stated though, that on quite luxurious pieces from some very high-end brands (large or otherwise), anglage is pre-done by the extremely capable CNC machines that are becoming more and more omnipresent in the sector — and the advantages are only to be touched up and glistening. On ultra-high-end stuff is where you can anticipate sharp internal corners where the 2 borders come in to a stage, unlike the round, CNC’ed corners which are observable on so many watches — such as this one.
Two quite interesting particulars about how the Cartier Santos santos diamond replica watchDe Cartier Skeleton is decorated include the way the brushed surfaces — along with the whole dial facet, for that matter — reflect the colour of ambient lighting. This is phenomenon isn’t a new one, naturally, but to the extent to which it is evident this is well worth mentioning; as you’ll see for yourself at the two images above. 1 piece that actually stood out for me as unwelcome, and I guess I am splitting hairs here, is the very small camera involving the 5 and 4 o’clock indices — to the side of the dial on the picture above. I understand it’s challenging to make such tiny and fragile pieces look great, but here it really contrasts strongly against the impressive volume of those cut-out indices and plates.
The new-for-2018 Santos line-up impressed us with its high quality case with neat ending and plenty of creative and fascinating details — like the integration of the bezel to the case, the neatly curved and polished border along the case profile, along with the new QuickSwitch along with SmartLink system which permits tool-free strap shifting and bracelet adjustment (more details here).
All in all, this truly is a somewhat bold way of dressing up the Santos — among the strongest Cartier mens diamond clone collections today, as far as I’m concerned. The case is of the”Large” kind — Cartier’s affair with clothing-inspired size definitions I hope to grow to accept someday. “Big” in this instance means a 39.8mm broad and 9.08mm thick case — lug-to-lug it’s definitely above 50mm though, making for what is really a substantial, or should I say”Big” footprint. The hands stay petite — a Cartier trait I wish was something of the past — especially on watches which have”Large” in their title. The 9611 MC quality has an impressive 70-hour power book, so I guess it ought to have the power to carry larger hands too. I have for long been a lover of how Cartier incorporates tiny Cartier text to the fine print of its own Roman numerals — perhaps the logo would’ve been better placed over the 7 or 8 o’clock index, but I am nitpicking again.
It is a brute of a watch in terms of size, first impressions, and total layout — but the filigree skeletonized appearance, I think, could have been a far better fit with 2018’s brand new and most welcome additions of smaller Santos models.
But I think the overall direction that we’re seeing here is good and the Cartier Santos De Cartier Skeleton is a step in the ideal direction. It brings the stupid-expensive appearance to the very-expensive cost segment — because yes, the latter is somehow below the former in my book. The method by which the movement was created in the get-go and then excessively skeletonized indicates a lot of effort, but the creative section needs to, at least in my opinion, have been somewhat more courageous with their selection of sizes, materials, and colours. Though, I suppose more versions will be to come soon enough. I am only hoping for less brutality and more lessons out of a minumum of one of those.
Component of the Tank’s history is that the many significant 20th century figures who have prominently worn it. We won’t (can not) list them all here, but monarchs, politicians, and accurate icons of music and sports have aided the tank achieve its standing and are testament to its success. And these were not “brand ambassadors” as we understand them today, but true lovers of this watch – or those just following a trend, like Andy Warhol, that seemingly did not keep it wound onto his wrist.Cartier Tank watches have comprised a selection of moves above their history, and the earliest models used manually wound Jaeger moves. The first Cartier Watches Reddit Replica Tanks were somewhat stouter than the absolutely (in my view) tasteful proportions of this Tank we understand today, best exemplified by the Tank Louis Cartier that was first introduced in 1922. I have been unable to pinpoint precisely when the predominance of Breguet pomme-style hands gave way to the sword-shaped hands most prevalent on Cartier watches now. Though technically a more recent model, the contemporary Cartier Tank Solo XL is comparable in design to the Tank Louis Cartier and does a good job, I feel, of representing its own heritage.Cartier’s current Tank collection includes six versions: Anglaise, Americaine, Française, Louis Cartier, MC, and Solo. Yet again, the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic in steel on a leather strap reflects the brand’s most affordable mechanical men’s watch. For the album, the least expensive men’s watch overall is – no, not the quartz Tank Solo, however the Cartier Ronde Solo quartz watch seen below at about $2,600. With a 36mm-wide (6.6mm-thick) steel instance (30m water-resistant), the Cartier Ronde Solo quartz watch is little for a great deal of contemporary men’s tastes however is easy, with no fuss, and offers a lot exactly what many people want out of Cartier.
Are we pumped for SIHH 2018 yet? Just like the “holiday shopping season” and beginning around the same time, it seems like the new-product announcements get earlier every year. With still more than a month to go, the 2018 models that we will get to see in Geneva in January have already started coming in. The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) watch industry trade show, just like its organizing body the Fondation de la Haute Horlogerie (FHH), has continued to grow and evolve each year, adding more brands as well as a day where the show is open to the public for the first time in 2017 – this time around, it will be Friday, January 19th, 2018. Now with a total of 35 brands, SIHH 2018 promises even more variety than in previous years.
You already know that SIHH is one of the two most important events for the watch industry, as its exhibitors – while much fewer than at the biggest industry trade show, Baselworld – represent many major and influential brands, and this is the time of year when they introduce their most important new products. Vis-à-vis Baselworld – where around 300 brands represent the breadth of the watch industry from high-end and mainstream to obscure startups – SIHH has always carefully maintained an image of exclusivity and “prestige.”
So, while a few brands do introduce models in the “mid-level luxury” range that the average person might be able to consider saving up for and possibly actually wearing… you can expect a lot of skeletonization, avant-garde designs, artisanal techniques and haute horology finishing, “high complications,” precious materials, and stratospheric prices. Haute horlogerie is in the name, after all. It has largely been a spectator’s show for fans of high-end watchmaking, but with recent industry trends emphasizing more “down-to-earth” (it’s all relative) models, some balance and variety can at least be hoped for.
The Richemont Group along with some independent brands long represented the handful of SIHH exhibitors. However, the show’s 2016 edition added a “Carré des Horlogers” section with nine “artisan-creators and independent workshops” and expanded that number in 2017. This year, the Carré des Horlogers brands are up to no fewer than 17, with the primary exhibitors (referred to as “Historic Maisons”) at 18 for a total, again, of 35. The primary exhibitors are joined by Hermes, and the Carré des Horlogers adds five brands with Armin Strom, DeWitt, Ferdinand Berthoud, Élégante by F.P.Journe, and Romain Gauthier. See the full list of exhibitors in the image above.
From a media perspective, Baselworld has tended to spread our resources very thinly in past years with simply too much to cover at once, so with some prominent brands having moved from Baselworld to SIHH, we can hope for some balance between the shows. Around 20,000 visitors are expected this year, and the FHH promises improved facilities and connectivity in order to make our job of bringing you high quality content more efficient – so we’ll see what that’s like in January. That’s just a glimpse into our point of view in preparing for the show.
We’ll continue providing news of new products ahead of the show – if mostly only renders and official product images from the brands with basic information before being able to see the watches in person to photograph and evaluate them in their glorious and gritty reality. SIHH 2018 runs from January 15th to the 19th, and again, the last day is open to the public with tickets on sale at the SIHH website. sihh.org
I’ve always had a major soft spot for Cartier watches, especially high-end ones. The particular blend of technique, design, and a traditionally Parisian take on luxury makes them feel both conservative and full of personality. The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton (debuted here) is a good example of what to look for when you want a Cartier that is much fancier than the ones most people have, but not so exotic as to make it challenging to wear on a regular basis.
Cartier recently announced that their Haute Horlogerie division would significantly slow down production – as I understand it will focus instead on more practical, accessible (i.e. simple and less complicated) high-end watches. Exotic tourbillons and highly technical and original movements which the brand has received many accolades for will be increasingly uncommon as the brand transitions to mostly service existing watches and producing a smaller number of very exclusive watches that I believe will focus more on decoration than a novel movement or mechanism.
That leads me to believe that for the most part, outside of “piece unique” creations for special customers, watches like the Rotonde de Cartier Watches In Dubai Replica Mysterious Hour Skeleton might very well represent the top-of-the-line products Cartier makes for men. The watch is actually a combination of three existing items at Cartier, and that includes the Rotonde-style case, “mysterious” movement which has the hour and minute hands on a transparent plane, and on top of that, skeletonization of the in-house made caliber 9981 (which then becomes the caliber 9983) manually wound movement.
We’ve substantially seen all this before, and this watch more or less represents Cartier wanting to make the most out of its movements by offering them in a variety of cases. For instance, if you love the Mysterious Hour Skeleton but prefer the Cartier Cle case, they have a watch for you in the Cle de Cartier Mysterious Hour watch (hands-on here). The “non-Skeleton” version of the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton watch was actually the first model to debut this style of “mystery dial movement” in 2013 (hands-on with the Rotonde de Cartier Mystery Hour here).
Such designs have a long history going back to early 20th century table clocks produced by Cartier. At the time, it was en vogue for some brands (Cartier included) to produce mystery dial clocks. Many of these Art Deco style creations celebrated the intriguing optical illusion created when the hands were not mounted to the dial via a stem as is the case in a traditional watch, but rather mounted on a transparent plate, which itself features hidden gearing used to move it around the dial.
A skeletonized mystery watch is ironic since the skeletonization part sort of “ruins” the mystery. I’ve not seen anyone comment on this, but it wouldn’t stop me from having an otherwise enjoyable experience with a product such as this. In fact, if you liked the original Mystery Hour watch but wanted to “see even more,” then this Skeleton version might be right for you. Note that the privilege of having a skeletonized version of the Mystery complication watch will cost about $15,000 USD more than the non-skeleton model.
At 42mm wide in palladium (exclusively for now I believe) the Rotonde de Cartier Watches Leather Strap Replica Mysterious Hour Skeleton is just as wearable and comfortable as any Rotonde model. Why palladium? Good question; Cartier likely wants to know if you find the exotic and of-questionable-utility rare material exclusive. The round-case has a bit of French flair (even though it is Swiss Made) with its signature Cartier-style crown with blue sapphire crystal stone cabochon (note while in the past Cartier used mainly blue sapphire crystal for the cabochon, only its higher-end models these days get sapphire while more mainstream-intention models have blue spinel), and attractive, rounded bezel matched to the lugs.
Compared to the Cartier Cle version of the Mystery Hour Skeleton, the Rotonde models’ caliber MC 9983 is more… well skeletonized. Cartier really wanted to make sure that the “open” look of the movement matched the theme of the open look of the dial. In essence, the goal seemed to be that the user can see through as much of the watch as possible. I think the result is lovely, save for those people who aren’t interested in checking out their own arm hair and skin on a regular basis when glancing at this otherwise beautiful watch.
The movement uses two sapphire crystal plates upon which the hands are set. There is a traditional mounting system in the middle where the central axis point of the two sapphire crystal discs connect. Gears to the right of the hour and minute dial move these discs, which in turn move the hands. Framing all of this, and part of the movement, is the hand-finished plate which includes “structural” Roman numeral motifs. The overall look is great, though it isn’t the common decorative style one might consider when imagining a hand-finished mechanical watch movement. Cartier opts for a more modern, arguably masculine look for its particular aesthetic when it comes to skeletonized watch dials and movements.
The entire watch is 11.9mm thick (again, 42mm wide) making it both bold but also wearable under sleeves. If there was ever a luxury statement watch for guys who love mechanical movements – something like the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour Skeleton watch is it. You get the power of a well-known name, lots of authentic horological technique, and refined design along with a enviable mechanical movement on your wrist.
Cartier is thus wise to “mix and match” its movements and cases in order to offer the widest spectrum of looks and styles for its customers. Compared to many more niche luxury watch brands, Cartier arguably is better positioned to ask for luxury car prices for a watch. It is well-established that the popularity of a luxury product’s brand name is directly related to the price a brand can command. Thus, being one of the few watch brands out there with a relatively well-conceived approach to marketing and overall brand awareness, Cartier is perhaps more legitimately able to ask for the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Hour watch’s retail price of $75,000 USD. cartier.com
The Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie 2017 is now concluded, and the aBlogtoWatch team is predictably exhausted. We tried something new this year – a video log (vlog) series – to help capture what it is like to be at the show. Combining high excitement and energy-draining hours, we are glad people enjoyed that very intimate look behind the scenes and what it is like to attend the “world’s most prestigious” high-end watch trade show.
In my 9th year attending SIHH (itself in its 27th year) I’d like to once again recap the overall sentiment of the show as well as point out key highlights which we think the general watch-loving public should be excited about in 2017. Before we get to our top 11 watches of SIHH 2017, I’d like to explore the general watch and luxury industry atmosphere so that people get a better idea of why particular products are being made – and for whom.
It was a particularly cold and windy week in Geneva, Switzerland, during SIHH 2017. Our accommodations near Lake Geneva offered a first-rate view of what struck me as a suitable metaphor for the industry’s current circumstance. High winds blew over the water causing not only surfable waves (if you have an Iceman-like tolerance for cold) but also spilling onto the adjacent walking paths that in the spring and summer make for popular strolling avenues for lovers and languishers alike. The high winds and ominous lake waves seemed a fitting metaphor for the luxury watch industry which is continuing to experience a storm.
My fellow watch media, especially the more veteran channels or those seeking to appeal exclusively to industry folk, seem unsure of how to cover the clearly “bad times” that much of the industry is facing. Many people are losing their jobs, companies are being reorganized, and the Swiss watch industry – while there are more than a few strongly performing areas – is by most accords contracting (to put it lightly). Yet the weakness of egotism continues to shroud reality and despite unequivocal data (and a lot of it) indicating that the industry is bottoming out, few managers are looking at the issue square in the face.
In part, the traditional media is to blame, though they can hardly be faulted for not reporting on information that is so secretly guarded. While private banking is moving outside of Switzerland to places with more amenable laws to finance sheltering (especially for those with US bank accounts), many in the Swiss watch industry seem to fear the reality that without maintaining a strong sense of relevance the “traditional and lasting” Swiss watch industry is extremely vulnerable. Their customary reaction is to smile and sometimes boast of how “amazing” things are regardless of what the numbers might suggest.
The Cartier Watches Saks Fifth Avenue Replica Tank Solo XL Automatic is hardly a “large” watch, but it is successful in being a modern, satisfactorily manly iteration of the design. At 31mm by 40.85mm and 7.65mm thin, I locate the Cartier Tank Solo XL for a masterpiece of design and proportions and a excellent match for my 6.5″ (17cm) wrist. For a watch called the Tank with powerful military-associated roots, though, the Cartier Tank is largely seen as the reverse of a rough-wearing, battlefield view. The Cartier Tank Solo XL is water-resistant to only 30m, comes on a leather strap, and it’s almost the wristwatch version of a tuxedo.Calling this version “XL” reminds us that it’s still intended as a men’s eye. The basic expression of this Cartier Tank has been very popular for women’s watches, and this may actually turn some guys off by causing them to view it as female – Ariel discussed this general occurrence in a dedicated article here. Personally, that is not pertinent to my own tastes and wearing habits. Further, if you don’t consider Cartier a “real” watch maker since they also produce jewelry – well, then there’s probably nothing that I can say that will change your mind anyway.To me, there are 3 possible problems with the perception of the Cartier Tank. It may be considered 1) female(two) overly formal or conservative, or 3) generic. Yes, such as the Rolex Submariner, say, the Cartier Tank could be criticized as being a victim of its success. It has influenced countless other layouts and been imitated endlessly… to the point that its familiarity might almost represent a generic “watch” to people not knowledgeable about watches. The Tank’s recognizability can be a good or a bad thing depending upon your perspective, or it might not matter for you if you enjoy the opinion.
A little bit of advice to watch industry managers – do not forget that those in truly confident positions hardly find value in boasting about it. The more you tell us how incredibly surprising sales are, and how much client demand is straining your production resources, the more media and retailers alike detect a blip on their BS radars. The irony is that humility is a deeply ingrained and valued element of Swiss culture – and thus the sentiments of the watch industry demonstrate how truly pan-European it is, despite the fact that many are physically located within the borders of Switzerland.
Such words are intended to poke at the stone-like facade of success that all luxury brands seem intent on both guarding and presenting to the outside world. The consumers and retailers that support you are keenly aware that things aren’t exactly bullish. So let’s take a lesson from the diplomacy Switzerland is so often associated with and consider the value of a group effort to help remedy your watch industry problems as opposed to displaying the exact same image of unwavering success, year after year, despite what logic and facts clearly seem to suggest regarding earnings.
If I haven’t made my point abundantly clear, Switzerland: it’s time to let go of total control and invite in some help. You do make some pretty darn good watches when you put your minds to it, with organized factories and efficient offices. When it comes to understanding diverse market needs as well as marketing communication, I suggest you entrust professionals for advice that may know a bit more than you in such areas. It isn’t like they are going to suggest that in order to fix the industry you should stop making high-quality mechanical watches.
Politics and conservatism are hot issues these days, and the watch industry is no exception. I’ve further identified two areas that need serious reorganization or at least to be rethought: hiring good people who have clear goals, and ensuring that conservatism does not always block actual innovations. By this, I mean a few things.
First of all, the watch industry is structured in such a manner that there are relatively few truly powerful executives and managers, and controversy is avoided like the Black Death. This presents two powerfully important problems. The first is that because there are so few people with an actual say (or clearly thought-out means of measuring performance success) that there is an abundance of discretion among a small number of people. This means watch brands or groups in general are more structured like monarchies than modern organizations with proper decision-making authority.
There are benefits to this approach when you have a strong, forward-thinking leader who is able to achieve success through the help of a willing team – eager to oblige his (and it’s almost always a man) every whim. More often than not, however, such autocratic leaders are woefully unqualified to run a watch business in an era when people buy watches as emotional treats you can wear and show off to the world around you.
Thus, too much discretion in the hands of too few people can cripple otherwise effective leaders from being in control of narrow but specialized tasks that they can excel at. I truly believe that there was more of this in the past (Switzerland’s more or less socialist mentality to labor and decision-making would seem to suggest as much), and these days good ideas are snuffed out or otherwise ignored due to mere incompetence – or decision-makers who have unclear or incorrect goals given market positions.
Such pondering comes at a time when I’ve observed, year after year, good people at brands leaving, and not being replaced with qualified individuals. It’s incredibly sad. You might point out that there is perhaps even more weakness among the small independent brands who, without corporate parents, are free to make whatever decisions they like. Further consider that many of these are responsible for making a large percentage of today’s best watches, and yet a good number are struggling financially. I would not disagree with this in the least, but I would point to a much more simple reason why so many cool independent brands (of course, not all of them) are suffering despite seemingly having amazing products.
The answer, in my opinion, is that overall weakness in the more mainstream industry is directly hurting the smaller independents. In order for them to survive and find customers, they must rely on the big brands doing the hard work to turn people into watch lovers, and then, secondly, to allow them to have a pleasant purchasing and ownership experience. Most watch consumers who collect watches from high-end independent brands do so only after “graduating” from products from the larger brands. A weaker mainstream industry unable to capture the hearts and minds of consumers (and give them a quality purchase and ownership experience) is unlikely to breed too many people who then go on to desire the experience of a high-end independent brand.
Let’s talk about products now, since the hot trends and patterns we saw in watches at SIHH 2017 will be of interest to many people. Many of the displaying brands seemed to have a good idea of how to capture the heart of “the lost market,” which is the United States. To do this, the industry needs to make attractive, practical watches such as sport watches and some complicated with focused functionality and non-precious cases. A lot of brands are doing just that ranging from “houses” such as Cartier to Baume & Mercier, Montblanc, and Ulysse Nardin. Again, “classic-feeling” sport watches in non-precious metals are performing much better in sales that many other types of watches these days. While not all new releases are amazing, more than enough of them are worthy of serious attention by consumers.
With that said, still too many watches priced under $5,000 feel as though they were designed and approved by a committee. While there are exceptions, cheap parts and unrefined dial designs are more common than I’d like to admit. Even though the emotional feeling a consumer gets when looking at the dial of a watch is the most important factor in making a purchase decision, way too many brands seem to OK a computer design for production, not realizing that in person that final watch will look much different. That means a picture of a dial might look good on a computer screen, but in person with the wrong materials, finishes, and colors, it can look like cheap junk. I really don’t know why this is, and I’m starting to get incredibly sick of hearing the excuse that if I see a dial or other element I don’t like it is because it is a prototype. If that is the case, then please stop showing me prototypes or put final models in our hands when they are finalized and ready to ensure the aBlogtoWatch team doesn’t leave with really pessimistic feelings about what you as a watch brand are trying to present to customers.
Asia is still a huge market for the watch industry – which seems continually comfortable making products for said markets. Oddly enough, the same level of care and attention doesn’t go into many watches intended to appeal to Western markets. Is it possible that a large volume of designers and product people in the watch industry simply forgot how to make watches (well, in enough variety) that appeal to Americans and Europeans (that don’t cost a bloody fortune)? I really don’t know the answer to that – but I can say that are vanishingly small amounts of people who genuinely love watches.
In this and other articles, I genuinely believe that I’ve pinpointed problems and provided some spot-on advice the watch industry can use to remedy its organizational, distribution, design, and sales woes. Before going into our list of the top 11 watches, I’d like to end my essay on the matter of price. Yes, that funny thing that most consumers seem obsessed over.
In response to getting the message from the public that they want more value from their watches, the industry has simply gone out and started to produce less expensive watches. That makes sense, but it misconstrues the issue. The reason is that they are simply making lower-priced watches that often simply suck. Many have potential, but cost-cutting schemes in both materials and construction are glaringly obvious in watches from all but the most detail-obsessed brands. Let me clarify what the industry seems to have misunderstood – people didn’t ask for more cheap watches. People asked for more watches worth what they cost. There is a big difference.
Why do industry decision-makers think that a $10,000 watch that feels like a $5,000 watch will have any greater difficulty in being sold than a $4,000 watch that feels like a $1,000 watch? The problem on the cost-cutting side of the industry is that watches don’t feel like they are worth what brands are charging for them – and I’m not even going to bring up the gray market in this discussion. When people complain of “greed” and “stupidity” in the watch industry – what they are really referring to is making watches that no one wants to buy for the price. There are already legions upon legion of cheap watches out there that connoisseurs would never be interested in. Why, then, do “prestigious” watch brands seem intent on following this model?
There isn’t even a precedent for this approach. Their sole argument in defense of the practice of selling cheap watches for a lot of money is that they can try to make up for it in branding and marketing (like celebrity ambassadors, etc.). Once again, this is a clear sign of someone who doesn’t know how to evaluate a good watch, making decisions about making watches. Rolex, for instance, does blanket the market with marketing messages, but they also happen to deliver an industry-leading product in terms of overall quality for the money. Why, then, would anyone buy a non-Rolex watch of lower inherent quality for the same or even more money? Other than “they want something different,” I have yet to hear a good answer to this.
Even though new models (shown to press) from many watch brands were limited this year, there are some standout models which defy the norm and offer excellent artistic craftsmanship or attractive designs and approachable value propositions. No matter what your price range is, there is something new for you to be excited about from SIHH 2017. Especially at the lower-end (in terms of price), there is actually something new to report on from SIHH, even though the show is more typically associated with releasing items of incredible beauty and complexity, but typically at prices only the world’s elite can strive to afford.
It’s the shopping season, and that probably means at least one thing – you are stressed out from shopping. The last thing any of us wants to do is visit more stores, so good thing the internet has us covered. In the context of luxury watch sales (for the purpose of this article I mean watches with a retail price of $5,000 and up), more and more brands are launching official e-commerce boutiques this year, which means you can buy safe and buy direct. Even though the sale of wristwatches online is anything but new, the luxury watch industry itself has only recently “officially” entered online sales in an appreciable way. Let’s take a look at some of the luxury timepieces that you can buy direct from the company this holiday season.
First, a few thoughts on authorized e-commerce sales for watches in general. The most important thing to know is that for the most part, you’ll be paying the full retail price. Though doing so yields some unexpected benefits of buying directly from a brand. It is true that (especially in the past) many brand new luxury watches could be purchased from various online discounters. For those of you accustomed to getting great deals on new luxury watches, the reality is that those days are ending. As a consumer you were benefiting from a broken distribution system that the watch industry is increasingly trying to clean up. I say this because while in the past, it might not have made sense to spend full retail and buy directly from the brand, moving forward you’ll see a lot more price consistency online – whether you buy a watch direct from a brand or an authorized third-party retailer.
Few brands are putting all their available watch models for sale online, and at the same time there are going to be more and more watches that you can exclusively buy online direct from a brand’s website (or a brick & mortar boutique). I say this because there will continue to be special or very high-end models that are not available to purchase online. In fact, a lot of brands are only putting their “core collection” products online, with limited edition or other harder-to-get watches being available in other ways (though a phone call to the brand’s customer service number usually helps you buy what you are looking for).
At the same time, you’ll increasingly see watches being sold directly from brands online that will not be available in other places. Watch companies know that exclusivity is an important factor in you making a decision about what watch to get, and where you get it. Their hope is that by offering certain models direct to the consumer (without first being sold to a third-party dealer), they will convince enough people to shop directly from them.
Finally, many luxury watch brands are still experimenting with how they communicate with their consumers, offer incentives to shop directly on their websites, or in general, manage an effective e-commerce platform that you as the consumer want to use. Consider the next few years to be a sort of transitional period when traditional watch brands accustomed to older ways of doing business finally introduce the convenience of e-commerce that so many customers have been asking for. Allow me to also note that concurrently to brands offering their watches direct to consumer via their own e-commerce stores, many are also allowing their third-party brick & mortar retailers to sell online (at presumably the same or similar prices). Note that some watch brand e-commerce stores are still available only in particular markets (such as the USA).
Chopard L.U.C XP
Chopard has among the more developed luxury watch e-commerce stores out there, servicing the US along with a number of other major markets. Even though not all of their timepieces are available to purchase online, they offer more extremely high-end and complicated watches via e-commerce than most other brands I can think of. This includes much of the celebrated L.U.C collection. While it is nowhere near the top of what they offer, the recently released 40mm wide Chopard L.U.C XP in steel with the blue fabric cashmere strap (aBlogtoWatch hands-on here) is a lovely dress watch with an exciting in-house made automatic movement. Price is $9,250 USD. chopard.com
Panerai Luminor Due 3 Days Automatic
Panerai just recently launched their official e-commerce boutique in the US for watches, but have been selling straps and other accessories for a while. Panerai has a loyal following of collectors, who likely enjoy the ability to get their timepieces online with ease. The Panerai Luminor Due (aBlogtoWatch review here) is among the new Panerai watch families and is distinguished by a familiar look but a thinner case (about 40% according to Panerai) and an in-house made automatic movement. The pictured model has a 45mm wide steel case with a retail price of $10,500 USD. panerai.com
IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic
Sporting an in-house made automatic chronograph movement and (as implied by the name) a classic look, the IWC Portugieser Chronograph Classic is a sensible, and versatile luxury watch designed to go most places you want to take it – and like most other IWC watches, you can get it direct from the brand. IWC has continued to refine its Portugieser (Portuguese) watch collection for years, a design that was originally inspired by ship deck clocks. The Portugieser Chronograph Classic has a 42mm wide steel case, alligator strap, and attractive (plus legible) blued hands and hour markers. Retail price as pictured is $12,100 USD. iwc.com
An Wonderful part in 2010 was the Rotonde Grande Complication. This year however, Cartier ready a huge demonstration for the media, to present the 2015 version of this Rotonde Grande Complication (under), with no way another dial colour, or alternative case, but a very different watch together: Perpetual Calendar, Minute Repeater and Flying Tourbillon. Powered by the newest skeletonized automatic standard 9406MC, with a dual platinum micro-rotor. The Grande Complication was rewarded with the Geneva Seal.Since 2007, Cartier’s team of watchmakers built (made) an impressive assortment of approximately 40 different calibers, from the fundamental 1904MC to the exact high-end complicated 9406MC. All watches in the top line have in-house calibers and in a few years, the whole mainstream collection will perform too.Thank you for reading and don’t forget that the new ‘your wife loves so much’, has changed into this genius watchmaker that you should pay attention to, even once you’re considering high end watch making!This post was composed by long-time Cartier specialist George Cramer for Fratello Watches. George is currently a contributor to Revo-Online, Revolution Magazine and runs his own website as well at which he keeps track of his various gifts about Cartier along with his other (main) interest, independent watchmaking.Cartier is a leading French luxury manufacture of watches and was set in 1847. Now, Cartier belongs to the Richemont Group (Vacheron Constantin, IWC, Panerai, Piaget). Cartier watches are collected and admired by celebrieties, royals, rich aficionados and enthusiastic watch collectors alike.
Omega just recently launched their own e-commerce shop to join many others. I like the newly updated Seamaster Planet Ocean collection, that has a series of important upgrades which make it better than ever. Available in a range of sizes and styles, the three-hand 43.5mm model is a relatively fresh addition, and now contains a Co-Axial Master Chronometer movement (which you can see through the sapphire crystal caseback). The pictured model with the orange accents easily has the best mix of personality and fashionable versatility. As pictured in steel on the bracelet, price is $6,550 USD. omegawatches.com
Longines Master Collection 40mm Gold 18K Chronograph With Moon Phase
Unlike some watchmakers, Longines has a totally separate (which can be confusing for consumers) website area for e-commerce, aside from the basic longines.com. Value-laden Longines timepieces are a good option when you want a reasonable price for a solid-gold watch (among other types of pieces) such as this Master Collection 40mm Gold 18K Chronograph With Moonphase that contains a Swiss ETA Valjoux 7751 automatic movement. The 18k gold case is paired to an alligator strap, and the overall composition of the timepiece is intentionally timeless by design. It is as straightforward as the retail price, which is $10,250 USD. shop.us.longines.com
Last year at SIHH, Cartier made waves with the debut of the men’s Drive de Cartier collection (hands-on here) that featured an all-new cushion-shaped case that has really seemed to resonate with longtime fans. This year, Cartier has added two new models with the Cartier Drive de Cartier Moon Phases watch and the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat. Initial impressions here are that the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases presents a sufficiently pleasant, yet somewhat obvious option in steel or gold that adds variety to the collection and differentiates itself enough that it will be just right for some, and for others may simply elicit a “why not?” The Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat, however, looks sleek and sexy. In a way, I feel like the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat realizes what the Drive de Cartier line should be all along. The catch? It’s only available in white or rose gold.
The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases watch maintains the 40mm x 41mm cushion-shaped case and is crafted either from steel (shown here) or 18k pink gold. On the latter, the octagonal crown is likewise made from 18k pink gold and both models are topped with sapphire. Two blued-steel hands glide across the guilloche dial with the classic Roman numerals. At 6 o’clock, you’ve got the moon phases sub-dial, and I can already tell the addition of the text reading “AUTOMATIC” is going to (ahem) “drive” some people nuts. In most likelihood, it’s there because Cartier didn’t want too a sudden break from the minute markers on the inner dial and because a lack of a seconds hand is common to quartz pieces. The white gap would look pretty stark, but it’s the only watch in the line that has the addition of this text, and all the models in the line contain automatic movements. Maybe the aesthetic choice just outweighs anything else.
The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases watch features the complication that accounts for the cycles of the moon and is described as “astronomic” due to the fact that it only needs to be adjusted for one day every 125 years – so save the manual for your grandchildren. The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases features the maison‘s new automatic winding 1904-LU MC which operates at 28,800Hz and has a 48-hour power reserve.
Now, the Cartier Watches Automatic Vs Quartz Replica Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat watch measures in at a mere 6.6mm, which is more than 40% thinner than last year’s 2016 models. This lithe offering exudes elegance and sports a sunray satin-finished dial in place of Cartier’s beloved guilloche. The Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat case is also a bit smaller at 38mm x 39mm, and it has a 30m water-resistance rating. The piece is powered by the manually wound 430 MC and will be available in both white and pink gold. The 430MC caliber is based on the Piaget 430P, which is appropriate given Piaget’s reputation for slimness. The Cartier 430MC operates at 21,600vph and provides an, honestly, disappointing 36-hour power reserve. Again, no seconds here either, but the dial is largely untouched.
Cartier knows they are going to bug some folks with the fact that a steel model of the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat isn’t available (at least, for now), but it’s promising that entering the second year since its inception, the Drive de Cartier line is being refined. We reviewed a gold “small complication” model that had a busy dial and polarized people. I have a feeling that the Drive de Cartier Moon Phases might get the same reception but the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat is just a slick, subtle stunner that makes me want an invite to a black-tie affair immediately.
I think if there’s one word that Cartier Watches Discounted Replica is striving for in their development of this piece, it’s “timeless.” After all, no matter what you may think of the Tank and Santos watches, there’s no arguing with their timeless appeal. I don’t think Cartier is there yet, but that’s not meant as a harsh criticism, and rather that I feel like the brand is on the right path. If the Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat is a glimpse into where they are going, then I look forward to SIHH 2018 and what they have to offer then.
An essential development was the automatic 1904MC caliber that was presented in 2011. A thin automated caliber with 48 hours of power reserve, including the time using a subsidiary seconds dial @ 6 along with a date complication. Cartier made certain that it had enough differences in comparison to the majority of the foundation moves provided by ETA. The ‘Calibre de Cartier’ was the very first watch that was powered with the 1904MC, but shortly after Cartier began the use the grade as the foundation for a variety of Chronographs and Perpetual Calendar calibers.The new Calibre Diver, that was launched last year, is also powered with the 1904MC. It is the first diver watch for Cartier and is, believe it or not, the slimmest Diver in the world. For a diver watch that’s really flat, compared to for instance — the famous Rolex Submariner which has a height of 12,5mm or the Rolex Sea-Dweller DeepSea that steps 17,68mm. As it needs to be, the back of the case is closed and the bezel is self-lubricating and unidirectional, steel coated with ADLC, a substance that is harder than steel. The sapphire crystal that is 1.2mm thicker than that of their standard ‘Calibre de Cartier’ model, makes sure that it may defy the water resistance of 300m, that’s the same as the Submariner and greater compared to 100m water resistance of Panerai versions in the exact same price category.A watch that right took advantage from the technology of this ID-ONE is that the Astro Tourbillon Carbon Crystal which was presented in 2013, in a limited edition of 50 pieces. This new ‘Astro Tourbillon Carbon Crystal’ was released in a Niobium metal case, a lightweight and non-magnetic alloy, that resists corrosion, scratches and shocks also it has the carbon escapement of this ID-ONE. This watch is the Worlds first escapement adjustment-free and lubrication free tourbillon. If service on the movement can now be reduced to (almost) none, the skies will be the limitation for the upcoming generation of Cartier’s tourbillon models.
The Drive de Cartier Moon Phases watch is paired with a semi-matte brown alligator leather strap with pricing at $7,850 for the steel and $21,100for the 18k pink gold. The Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat white gold variant is limited to a 200 piece run and comes on a semi-matte greyed alligator leather strap while the 18k pink gold model receives the brown. Prices for the Cartier Drive de Cartier Extra-Flat are $16,700and $15,600, respectively, with availability beginning in April 2017. cartier.com
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Since Cartier reinvigorated its fine watchmaking department eight years ago, it has surprised us each year with one great complicated watch after another. This year, Cartier had a different kind of surprise: a resurrection of the Panthère de Cartier, which had been discontinued in the early aughts. Aside from a new Minute Repeater Mysterious Double Tourbillon (new in the sense that these complications are combined for the first time), the Cartier Panthère De Cartier was the main introduction at SIHH this year, making it clear that ladies’ watches aren’t second tier in marketing strength or sales.
When you look at the state of the watch industry over the past year, the reintroduction of the Panthère De Cartier Ladies Watches 0 Finance Replica is not all that surprising. Like the Tank, Santos, and other iconic volume collections, the Cartier Panthère is a bread-and-butter core collection: a sure thing in an unsteady market. With multiple references and price points, it is exactly what the market seems to call for, again, at the moment.
The Cartier Watches Usa Replica Panthère was originally introduced in 1983, and the relaunch design is exactly the same as the original: square case with screws on the bezel, Roman numerals, railway track index, and a tiny Cartier logo embossed in the X digit – distinguishing it from the counterfeits. Only the bracelet construction is new – it is more supple. All the movements are quartz, which keeps the watch elegantly thin, and true to the original design, which came into being at the height of the quartz era.
The new Panthère de Cartier is a full collection in three sizes with a pavé version, a lacquer and gold version, a yellow gold version – a star of the original collection – and a two-tone model, with prices ranging from $4,000 to $140,000.
Other, higher-end Tank versions include variations on the form and design, as well as alternatives such as fancier movements and valuable metals. Sportier options can be found in the Santos and MC families. But, all of these are more expensive than the entry-level Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic.A lot of different brands offer you square and rectangular watches that are at least influenced by the Cartier Tank, though few are quite successful, it seems. The Jaeger-LeCoultre Reverso is, of course, the other important rectangular, Art Deco watch on the market, but it’s more costly and really provides a somewhat different charm. If your Cartier Tank alternative must be rectangular, please try it on first because it’s much harder to get proportions and fit right than with a round watch.Another way of looking at the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic would see its competitors as standard dress-style mechanical watches in the $3,000-$4,000 range, round or otherwise. Dress-style watch choices exist for just about any budget. Here is our Top 10 Elegant Dress Watches for Guys article with mostly higher-end alternatives. For those on a much tighter budget, we proposed Orient’s apparel watches and appeared at a couple of them. I look forward to readers’ tips.
The Santos is also an iconic square-cased Cartier Watches Toronto Canada Replica watch with Roman numerals and visible screws on the bezel, and at least one person I spoke to was confused about its similarity to the Cartier Panthère, so it’s worth showing the Santos here for comparison. The differences are subtle. The size of the bezel and screws are much smaller on the Cartier Panthère than on the Santos, and the lugs are more tapered, as is the crown. And on the Santos, there is no border on the railroad track index. (Although there was a border on the index of the original Santos watch created in 1904).
The Santos was created for aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont, a friend of Louis Cartier, to enable him to time his flight legs without having to take his hand off the controls to reach for his pocket watch. It was a hit in Parisian society, and Cartier launched it commercially a few years later. The Santos-Dumont’s square shape was revolutionary for its time, and thus began Cartier’s adventure into the world of shaped watches.
Although the Cartier Watches Swiss Made Replica Panthère volume collection was created in 1983, Cartier has been making jeweled Panther-themed watches since even before it created the Santos watch in 1904 – the only men who were wearing wristwatches at the time were soldiers in the South African Boer War, and that was because Africa’s climate was too hot for a waist coat, where a man’s pocket watch is properly kept. Cartier continues its tradition of jeweled Panther watches every year. This year, the new jewelry creations included, most notably, the Royale and the Joueuse. The Cartier Panthère Royale was inspired by a famous panther and sapphire brooch made by Cartier in 1949 for the Duchess of Windsor. It is designed in concentric circles set with diamonds surrounding a panther also set with diamonds and lacquer.
Cartier is going to be releasing the Panthère de Cartier line in June 2017 with 16 pieces that are designed to appeal to virtually every possible segment of the market. Just to keep it simple, we’ll go through the 22mm smaller models first followed by the 27mm versions.
Prices for the 22mm Cartier Watches Denver Replica Panthere de Cartier watches are as follows. The all-steel model ref. WSPN0006 is $4,000; 18k yellow gold and steel two-tone ref. W2PN0006 is $7,350; 18k rose gold ref. WGPN0006 is $19,900; 18k yellow gold ref. WGPN0008 is $19,900; 18k rose gold with diamonds ref. WJPN0008 is $23,700; 18k white gold with diamonds ref. WJPN0008 is $25,400; the interesting-looking 18k rose gold with black lacquer ref. WGPN0010 is $24,900; and the all white gold and diamond ref. HPI01129 is $81,000.
Prices for the 27mm Cartier Watch Vermeil Quartz Argent Replica Panthère de Cartier watches: all-steel model ref. WSPN0007 is $4,600; 18k yellow gold and steel-two tone ref. W2PN0007 is $8,100; 18k rose gold ref. WGPN0007 is $23,000; 18k yellow gold ref. WGPN0009 is $23,000; 18k rose gold with diamonds ref. WJPN0009 is $27,400; 18k white gold with diamonds ref. WJPN0007 is $29,400; 18k rose gold with black lacquer ref. WGPN0011 is $28,900; 18k white gold and diamonds ref. HPI01130 is $112,000; and all 18k white gold & diamonds with black lacquer ref. HPI01096 is $141,000. cartier.com
Welcome to the latest installment in our Cost of Entry series. In this aBlogtoWatch feature, we examine different brands through the lens of their most affordable model. Having previously looked at the entry-level offerings of Rolex, Omega, Panerai, and Hublot… today, a name well-known even far outside the world of watches: Cartier. And none other than the iconic Tank, in the form of the Cartier Watches Logo Replica Tank Solo XL Automatic, represents the most affordable mechanical men’s watch Cartier offers, at around US$3,500. The question is, however, what exactly you get with the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic and how well it represents the brand.
We don’t need to tell you that Cartier is one of the world’s most well-known luxury brands. While I like to approach this series as a brand study rather than as how to buy into a prestigious name for the least amount of money possible… Cartier’s prestige and recognizability are undeniably a huge draw for a great many people around the world. Cartier has achieved a remarkably cohesive identity and consistency across a wide range of products, but where does the Cartier Tank Solo XL fit in to that? In this article, we want to look at what exactly the Cartier Tank Solo XL offers in terms of value, history, horological interest, style, and that more vague quality that is Cartier essence. The Cartier Tank turning 100 years old in 2017 also makes it timely to revisit its story that is a big part of the watch we are looking at today.
Short History Of The Cartier Vintage Watches Uk Replica Tank
Founded in Paris, France, by Louis-François Cartier in 1847, Cartier as a company will be 170 years old in 2017, but is no longer a small family-run jeweler, of course. The three grandsons of the founder were Louis, Pierre, and Jacques, and together they oversaw Cartier’s expansion to become a globally recognized name – Louis being the most central to our story. The next Cartier generation, the children of the three brothers, sold the business in the 1970s to an investor group. And finally, in 2012, Cartier joined the Richemont Group where it resides today among illustrious colleagues of haute horlogerie.
Entire books have been written about Cartier and even about the Cartier Tank watch itself, and the basic story that Louis Cartier based the Tank design on the shape of WWI tanks seen on the Western Front is probably familiar to many readers. Cartier made clocks, pocket watches, and women’s wristwatches before wristwatches for men began to catch on – and when men did begin to wear wristwatches, Cartier played a major role in their wider adoption and the Cartier Tank was an important part of the transition from pocket to wrist.
The first wristwatch for men is sometimes said to be the Cartier Tank Watch Quartz Replica Santos from 1904, designed by Louis Cartier – at least, this began to help popularize men’s wristwatches. It was certainly one of the earliest watches designed as a wristwatch, rather than a pocket watch adapted with straps for the wrist, or “strap watch.” Called a “silly ass fad” by some around the early part of the 1900s (which I find delightful), men’s wristwatches still needed time to be accepted by the mainstream. In 1916, The New York Times admitted that wristwatches were more than a passing fad, and WWI saw soldiers beginning to strap watches to their wrists for practical reasons.
Louis Cartier (1875–1942) designed a number of watches that are still part of Cartier’s lineup today, including the Santos, Tank, and Tortue. At that time Louis perhaps thought that the future of wristwatches meant non-round cases. This would also help distinguish them from the round pocket watches that had simply been adapted for the wrist. The first Cartier Tank watch was created in 1917 and the story goes that those initial models were given to General John Pershing of the American Expeditionary Force and his officers. In 1919, a total of six Tank watches were produced, but an icon had been created, and new versions have followed regularly since – you can see more about early Tanks and other early Cartier men’s watches here.
Part of the Tank’s history is the many significant 20th century figures who have prominently worn it. We won’t (can’t) list them all here, but monarchs, politicians, and true icons of sports and music have helped the tank achieve its status and are testament to its success. And these were not “brand ambassadors” as we know them today, but true fans of the watch – or those just following a trend, like Andy Warhol, who apparently didn’t even keep it wound on his wrist…
Cartier Tank watches have included a range of movements over their history, and the earliest versions used manually wound Jaeger movements. The first Cartier Tanks were somewhat stouter than the perfectly (in my opinion) refined proportions of the Tank we know today, best exemplified by the Tank Louis Cartier that was first introduced in 1922. I have been unable to pinpoint exactly when the predominance of Breguet pomme-style hands gave way to the sword-shaped hands most prevalent on Cartier watches today. Though technically a more recent model, the modern Cartier Tank Solo XL is similar in design to the Tank Louis Cartier and does a good job, I feel, of representing its heritage.
The Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic
Cartier’s current Tank collection comprises six models: Anglaise, Americaine, Française, Louis Cartier, MC, and Solo. Once again, the Cartier Watches Oklahoma City Replica Tank Solo XL Automatic in steel on a leather strap represents the brand’s most affordable mechanical men’s watch. For the record, the least expensive men’s watch overall is – no, not the quartz Tank Solo, but the Cartier Ronde Solo quartz watch seen below at around $2,600. With a 36mm-wide (6.6mm-thick) steel case (30m water-resistant), the Cartier Ronde Solo quartz watch is small for a lot of modern men’s tastes but is simple, without fuss, and still offers a lot what many people want from Cartier.
So besides the fact that an in-house motion was becoming more and more important, Cartier realised quite well that to be really reliable and successful in the sphere of high-end watches they needed to produce not just their particular calibers, but also as many components as you can, such as the case, springs, rotors, dials, hands, glass etc.Cartier built, throughout the Collection Privée period, a big — over 30.000 square meters — fabricate in La Chaux-de-Fonds (see our coverage here) and started to use a selected group of watchmakers on a follow up project to be started in 2008, all led by Carole Forestier-Kasapi, the genius watchmaker which was hired in 2005 and had worked in Audemars Piguet (Renaud & Papi) and van Cleef & Arpels. This very modern and high-end manufacture is currently together with the Rolex manufacture, the biggest in Switzerland!The very first outcome of Cartier’s high-end watchmaking premiered in November 2007. Unfortunately, the opinion was housed in a 47mm oversize Ballon Bleu instance, after the huge watch trend.Since the launch of the Flying Tourbillon, Cartier did not rest on their laurels. While other leading brands like Audemars Piguet were carrying it quietly and satisfying the watch fanatics with ‘Offshore’ after ‘Offshore’, year after year, Cartier made over-hours and invented new substances, new calibers and amazed the media each January at the SIHH with real novelties. In 2009, and in 2012, Cartier even encouraged more than a hundred journalists from around the globe and flew them into La Chaux-de-Fonds, to show the ID-ONE and ID-TWO watch in their own manufacture. Two prototype watches that would never hit the current market, but were made for study and — of course — to demonstrate the press just how far ahead Cartier was in fine watchmaking.
The Cartier Watches 1713 Replica Tank Solo XL Automatic watch was introduced in 2012 and added a larger, mechanical alternative to the quartz Tank Solo. The Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic initially featured the automatic Cartier 049 calibre, which is an ETA 2892. However, Cartier has confirmed with us that when the Cartier Clé introduced the in-house 1847 MC movement in 2015 a lot of basic models were quietly fitted with the new movement – including the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic. It is odd not only that Cartier chose to not announce this change, but that they do not even make the information publicly available – their website currently says little more than “mechanical movement with automatic winding” for the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic.
The 1847 MC movement is apparently positioned as a workhorse to take the place of ETA movements found in a range of Cartier Watches Images Replica collections, and with a diameter of 25.6mm, it will fit about anywhere an ETA 2992 or 2824 would. Bidirectional automatic winding, 42 hours of power reserve, operating at 4Hz with central seconds and date are all welcome modern features and appropriate for an entry level collection. The Cartier 1847 MC seems to mostly receive only basic decoration, but you won’t see it here anyway due to the solid caseback of the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic. An in-house movement should add interest and value for enthusiasts, and more so because the switch from a sourced movement was not accompanied by a change in price.
Standard for a modern luxury watch, antireflective sapphire crystal protects the dial, and the crown with its synthetic spinel cabochon is essentially unchanged from the earliest Tanks. The dial is what Cartier Watches Ladies Second Hand Replica calls silvered opaline, and it provides a satiny backdrop for the black Cartier Roman numerals without any shiny reflections to hamper legibility.
The Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic is hardly a “large” watch, but it is successful in being a more modern, sufficiently masculine iteration of the design. At 31mm by 40.85mm and 7.65mm thin, I find the Cartier Tank Solo XL to be a masterpiece of design and proportions and a great fit for my 6.5″ (17cm) wrist. For a watch called the Tank with strong military-associated origins, though, the Cartier Tank is mostly seen as the opposite of a rough-wearing, battlefield watch. The Cartier Tank Solo XL is water-resistant to only 30m, comes on a leather strap, and is almost the wristwatch version of a tuxedo.
Calling this model “XL” reminds us that it is still intended as a men’s watch. The basic look of the Cartier Tank has undeniably been very popular for women’s watches, and this might actually turn some men off by causing them to view it as feminine – Ariel discussed this general phenomenon in a dedicated article here. Personally, that is not relevant to my own tastes and wearing habits. Further, if you don’t consider Cartier a “real” watch maker because they also make jewelry – well, then there is probably nothing I can say that will change your mind anyway.
To many couples, the idea of a “his-and-hers” watch duo is appealing. The idea is to have sets of watches from the same brand and collection which are offered in equally appealing men’s and women’s variants. Thus, there is typically a larger and more masculinized “his” version, as well as typically a smaller and possibly more decorative “hers” version of the same model watch. His-and-hers watch sets are common enough, but finding ones that look just as good on both people is a bit more challenging. Below, we round up many of the most classic and appealing his and hers watches for couples that further demonstrate the importance and power of truly versatile watch designs.
A quick note on same-sex couples who may be similarly interested in matching, yet distinct timepieces. The situation for these couples is actually less challenging, as in many instances the choice will be not a watch model that has good-looking versions in various sizes, but rather watches which are mostly the same but with material, color, or other cosmetic differences. Same-sex couples looking for matching watches thus may have an easier time, though specific such recommendations are outside the scope of this article.
It is, perhaps, little surprise that classic-looking, conservative watches tend to look the best in both smaller and larger sizes. More distinctive or artistic timepiece designs tend to look best in a more narrow set of design considerations. With that said, you’ll notice that some watch models from the same brand are quite different in “his form” versus “her form.” The real challenge really comes down to selecting a duo of watches that both members of the couple enjoy equally.
If you want to add other good “his and hers” watches to the list, be sure to mention them in the comments below so that people looking for great options can be aware of them.
For me, a success in a his-and-hers watch combo is each piece being the only watch you really need, and the Rolex Datejust and Lady-Datejust absolutely fit that bill. It is even easy to imagine a couple unintentionally ending up with matching Rolex Datejust watches. The quintessential everyday men’s Rolex gifted at birthdays, weddings, and, yes, retirements, the Rolex Datejust is an enduring men’s icon. However, just as ubiquitous is the Rolex Lady-Datejust which successfully feminizes the “grandpa” image that the Datejust can be saddled with. No, it’s not the most youthful piece, so it might not appeal to younger couples, and the price matches the Rolex reputation. The updated Rolex Datejust 41 introduced last year ranges from €9,150 to €11,200. The Rolex the Lady-Datejust 31 in two tone retails for $9,700.
Cartier Santos Galbee for her; Cartier Santos 100 for him. The Cartier Santos comes with a great history as the first pilot watch ever created and one of the earliest wrist watches for men ever. Though it began as a men’s watch, it later developed a strong feminine appeal as well. The smaller, 34.8mm-by-26.2mm Cartier Santos Galbee is a good size for women and comes in a “two-tone” steel and gold case with a quartz movement, for a price of $17,300. For guys, the 41mm-wide Cartier Santos 100 with the automatic Cartier 1847 MC movement comes in all steel ($7,000), a two-tone model we reviewed here ($9,650) that would match best with the Galbee, and a black carbon model ($7,600) as the most macho and sporty option.
Hublot Big Bang
Hublot will always offer a bold choice for a man or a woman. The Hublot Big Bang Unico 45, as its name suggests, is 45mm wide and requires some degree of bravado from the wearer – or will perhaps supply you with some. Shown above is the Big Bang Unico 45 Black Magic version that is in a ceramic case, with a skeletonized dial, and Hublot’s HUB1242 UNICO Manufacture movement, all for a price of $19,900. Available in a range of pastel color options, Hublot’s Big Bang Linen is 41mm wide and includes the HUB4300 automatic chronograph movement, precious stones on the bezel, and commands a price of $15,700.
Patek Philippe Nautilus
The quintessential steel sports watch by Patek Philippe, the Nautilus is a contender for top power-couple watch. Recently celebrating its 40th birthday, the Nautilus (along with the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak) takes the self-assured luxury of a steel sports watch that costs as much as one made in precious metals and offers an everyday wear with, love it or hate it, top-tier brand recognition and quality. In recent times, Patek has doubled down on its classic designs that veer to the traditional side, but the Gerald Genta-designed Nautilus has remained a perennially popular watch with broad appeal. The 40mm-wide men’s model ref. 5711/1A-010 and the 35mm-wide ladies ref. 7118/1A-001 are both priced the same at about $24,000.
The Cartier Watches Kuwait Replica Tank Solo XL Automatic watch was released in 2012 and added a larger, mechanical solution to the quartz Tank Solo. The Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic initially featured the automated Cartier 049 calibre, which will be an ETA 2892. However, Cartier has confirmed with us when the Cartier Clé introduced the in-house 1847 MC movement in 2015 lots of basic versions were fitted with the new movement – like the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic. It is odd not only that Cartier chose not to announce that change, but that they do not even make the data publicly available in their own site currently says little more than “mechanical movement with automatic winding” for the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic. Bidirectional automatic winding, 42 hours of power reserve, working at 4Hz with fundamental minutes and date are welcome modern attributes and appropriate for an entry level set. The Cartier 1847 MC seems to largely receive only basic decoration, but you won’t find it anyway on account of the good caseback of the Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic. An in-house movement should include interest and value for enthusiasts, and more so since the switch from a sourced movement was not accompanied by a change in price.Standard to get a contemporary luxury watch, antireflective sapphire crystal protects the dial, along with the crown using its faux spinel cabochon is basically unchanged from the earliest Tanks. The dial is exactly what Cartier requires silvered opaline, also it supplies a satiny background for the black Cartier Roman numerals without any shiny reflections to hamper legibility.
Audemars Piguet Royal Oak
The Patek Philippe Nautilus vs. Audemars Piguet Royal Oak debate has been litigated and relitigated for years because, like all great timeless debates, there really isn’t a clear winner and both are legends in the world of steel luxury sport watches. The Royal Oak really has emerged as a more mainstream timepiece that you’ll see worn by celebrities, in pop-culture, and on the wrists of uber-wealthy teenage scions on Instagram. Still, the Gerald Genta-designed Royal Oak is an icon that comes in at 37mm (ref. 15450ST.OO.1256ST.01) or 41mm (ref. 15400ST.OO.1220ST.04) options that share an automatic caliber 3120 movement with a solid 60-hour power reserve. It’s far from being an original choice at this point, but it is the original non-round steel luxury sports watch that is nothing short of refined and cool as a his-and-hers option. The 37mm model is priced at $16,500 and the 41mm is $17,800, significantly less than the Patek Nautilus.
The Tonneau-shaped Longines Evidenza is an affordable Swiss watch that should appeal to a couple that appreciates a mechanical watch that stands out, has brand heritage, but costs less than competitors. There’s something inimitably charming about the idea of a couple wearing matching his and hers Tonneau-case watches since it’s a way to stand out from the crowd, but do it together. The men’s model is 33.1mm X 38.75mm and has the caliber L615, based off an ETA-2895-2 movement which operates at 28,800vph and has a 42-hour power reserve. The ladies model shrinks down to 26mm X 30.6mm and has the L595 caliber, based off the ETA 2000/1 which operates at 28,800vph and has a 40-hour power reserve. It also comes in a 19mm X 23mm quartz version. The men’s version on steel bracelet is priced at $2,225, the 26mm ladies version on an alligator strap is $2,000, and the 19mm quartz model is $1,450.
A more youthful take on the classic Movado museum dial, the Movado Bold was the natural choice when it came to the brand’s connected device offerings. They still offer a ton of traditional non-connected Bold options ranging from the mid to high 3-figure prices that allow for a lot of fun mixing and matching for a his-and-hers combination that is unified by the classically minimalist museum dial. The entire Bold line only comes in quartz, so we are talking about an option that focuses on style, accessibility, and general ease of use. Ladies models range from 25mm all the way up to 42.5mm, and the men’s selections go from there to 44mm. The non-connected Movado Bold watches for men and women start at $390and go up to about $995 (and a $1,495 ladies model with diamonds on the bezel). The Movado Bold Motion connected watches start at $490 for the 39mm and range from $695 to $895 for the 44mm models.
Bell & Ross
Bell & Ross’s square shaped watches based on the look of airplane cockpit instruments are a modern classic and come in a slew of variations including different materials and sizes. At 42mm wide, the BR 03 is probably the most wearable for men while still providing a lot of wrist presence. The BR S, while probably still a good fit for many men at 39mm, will also appeal to many women wanting a bold and fashionable piece. The version seen above in black ceramic with diamonds and running on a quartz movement, however, is distinctly feminine and has a price of $8,600. The basic steel model Bell & Ross BR 03-92 in steel with a Swiss automatic Sellita SW200-1 movement and on a rubber strap is $3,400.
A couple that’s into the modernist aesthetic isn’t going to have the easiest time finding a his-and-hers piece that matches their style, but the Rado Ceramica presents a sleek and (you guessed it) ceramic option. Recently redesigned by industrial designer Konstantin Grcic, the Rado Ceramica only comes in Quartz in order to maintain a slimmer wrist profile. The practical benefit of not having to deal with making sure a watch is wound is important to a lot of people, but it doesn’t mean design and materials are compromised. The men’s Ceramica is 30mm X 41.7mm, while the ladies model is 22.9mm X 31.7mm. I love the look of the matte-black ceramic on these watches, but the ladies model available in white looks very, very cool also. Price for the men’s and ladies Rado Ceramica is $2,100 and the ladies models with 4 diamonds on the dial are priced at $2,250.
IWC Pilot’s Watch
It’s common for women to wear men’s style sport watches as opposed to more feminine formal wear. For a lot of women, the perfect combination is a traditionally men’s style design but sized for her smaller wrist. So is the case with IWC’s Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36, which comes in a few dial and strap styles in a 36mm-wide steel case that will look good on ladies who like a more “instrumental look” on their wrist. For him, the IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII is the more masculine counterpart which continues a long tradition of pilot watch design by the brand. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII is in steel on a strap or bracelet in a 40mm-wide case. Both watches contain base Swiss automatic movements. The IWC Pilot’s Watch Mark XVIII for men is $3,950 strap or $4,950 bracelet and the IWC Pilot’s Watch Automatic 36 for women is priced the same.
When I think about the major Swiss watch brands, Breitling is one that I almost never associate with ladies watches. The Breitling Galactic, however, comes in 29mm, 32mm, and 36mm in addition to the 41mm version. I think there’s definitely a market for the bold, aggressive Breitling aesthetic but in a smaller case size. I honestly can’t say I know a couple that really fits into what I imagine the customers for a his and hers Breitling Galactic to be but I can imagine that they share similar sporty hobbies and lifestyles. For the smaller 29mm and 32mm models, Breitling decided to use their Superquartz movements, while there is the option of the Breitling caliber 37 automatic movement for the 36mm, which operates at 28,800vph and has a 42-hour power reserve. The 29mm only comes in one version with diamonds on the dial and bezel, with a price of $8,330. The 32mm is $5,420 in steel and $7,210 with diamonds on a leather strap. The quartz 36mm on a leather strap is $4,515, and the diamonds and steel bracelet model is $10,950. The automatic 36mm in gold and steel two-tone is $9,255 and steel bracelet with diamonds is $10,735. And finally, we get to the men’s 41mm models which are $5,325 on leather strap and $5,985 on steel bracelet.
SIHH 2018 is just months away, but we are already hearing about some of the new watches that will be released. Today, we have a pair of Cartier Rotonde De Cartier Mysterious watches – the Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night and the Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon.
The idea for these Mysterious Watches actually comes from the Mystery Clocks that Cartier made way back in the early 20th century. These clocks were notable because [SPOILER ALERT] their hands were fixed onto clear discs driven by gears just out of view, creating the impression that they were floating on the dial. This iconic look has been adapted for a number of Cartier’s watches and they make for interesting viewing.
The Cartier Tank Solo XL Automatic is hardly a “large” watch, but it is effective in being a more contemporary, satisfactorily manly iteration of the design. At 31mm by 40.85mm and 7.65mm thin, I locate the Cartier Tank Solo XL for a masterpiece of design and proportions and a excellent fit for my 6.5″ (17cm) wrist. To get a watch called the Tank with strong military-associated roots, though, the Cartier Tank is largely regarded as the reverse of a rough-wearing, battlefield watch. The Cartier Tank Solo XL is water-resistant to only 30m, comes on a leather strap, and it’s almost the wristwatch version of a tuxedo.Calling this version “XL” reminds us that it is still thought to be a men’s eye. The basic expression of the Cartier Tank has undeniably been popular for women’s watches, and this may actually turn some men off by inducing them to see it as female – Ariel discussed this general phenomenon in a committed article here. Personally, that isn’t pertinent to my own tastes and sporting habits. Further, if you do not believe Cartier a “real” watch maker because they also make jewelry – well, then there’s likely nothing that I can say that can change your mind anyway.To mepersonally, there are three possible problems with the understanding of the Cartier Tank. It might be considered 1) feminine(two) overly formal or old-fashioned, or 3) generic. Yes, such as the Rolex Submariner, state, the Cartier Tank could be criticized as being a victim of its success. It has influenced countless different designs and been imitated endlessly… to the point that its closeness might almost signify a generic “watch” to individuals not familiar with watches. The Tank’s recognizability may be good or a bad thing depending on your view, or it might not matter for you if you just like the watch.
The Rotonde de Cartier Watch Keeps Stopping Replica Mysterious Day & Night is available in a 40mm 18k pink gold or white gold case. Cartier fans will be pleased to know it also comes with the brand’s signature blue sapphire cabochon crown. Water resistance is rated at 30m.
The dial is divided into two halves. The top half features a day & night complication and also shows the hours in the form of a 12-hour scale that reads from six to six. In the day, a sun will appear on the dial and make its way from left to right. The hours are read simply by looking at the position of the sun in relation to the 12-hour scale. When it is night, a moon will appear and likewise will make its 12-hour journey from left to right. The bottom half of the dial features a radiating guilloché pattern in the center and a retrograde minutes display.
The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night is powered by the in-house hand-wound Caliber 9982 MC, which is visible through the sapphire display caseback. Made out of 174 components, it beats at 4Hz and has a power reserve of at least 48 hours.
The second watch, the Rotonde de Cartier Watch Kylie Jenner Replica Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon is based on the Rotonde Mysterious Double Tourbillon watch that was unveiled at SIHH in 2013. Case size is 45mm wide and it is only available in platinum. For those who want a little more bling, there are also two additional versions, one with a paved diamond bezel and another with a paved diamond case and movement.
Skeletonization is a much misunderstood art and I think a lot of people fail to appreciate just how difficult it is to take material away from the movement and still maintain proper aesthetics and structural integrity. In the case of the Rotonde de Cartier Watches Ballon Bleu Replica Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon, the bridges have been artfully skeletonized to take the shape of Roman numerals. In addition, the skeletonization of the movement has further accentuated the action of the double flying tourbillon.
Here, the double flying tourbillon makes a single rotation around the mystery dial once every 60 seconds. As a result, it also doubles as a seconds indicator. And while it does this, it makes a second rotation on its own once every five minutes. The hours and minutes are read off the two blued steel sword-style hands above the tourbillon.
The Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon is powered by the Caliber 9465 MC, which consists of 286 components, beats at 3Hz, and has a power reserve of at least 52 hours. It is also Poinçon de Genève certified, which means the movement has to meet strict criteria with regard to its finishing and materials. In short, expect the movement to be expertly finished.
We hope to see more of these two watches at SIHH 2018 early next year. The Rotonde de Cartier Mysterious Day & Night watch is priced at $63,000. The Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon watch is priced at $216,000. If you want one with a paved diamond bezel, it is $324,000, and with a paved diamond case and movement it is $530,000. Each variant of the Rotonde de Cartier Skeleton Mysterious Double Tourbillon watch is limited to 30 pieces. cartier.com