Pre-Baselworld 2015: Arnold & Son Royal TEC1 Tourbillon Chronograph ref. 1CTAG.U02A.C113G Watch Replica Guide Trusted Dealers


By John Galt

Arnold & Son has released a new reference of the TECH1 with palladium case and a black guilloche dial that will join the sophisticated Royal collection. The collection is inspired by timepieces created by John Arnold for King George III and other members of the British Royal family.

This new reference is the first time Arnold & Son exceptional watch makers have combined a tourbillon, large column wheel chronograph and automatic winding mechanism into such an elegant and classic timepiece.

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The 45mm case is both avant-garde and classically elegant even with the size, looking at the dial your eyes are immediately drawn to the cut away aperture between 10 O’Clock and 2 O’Clock housing the tourbillon escapement showing the incredible view as the tourbillon cage rotates. Coupled with a sapphire case back the tourbillon seems to float majestically in thin air. At first glance you expect the sub-dial at 6 O’Clock to house the small seconds but this is no ordinary piece, the sub dial houses the chronograph minutes with seconds counter via a centrally mounted second hand. The black guilloche dial with silver hands and hour markers are a perfect contrast to the palladium case. However gorgeous and alluring the dial and tourbillon are the real beauty and technical prowess of the TECH1 is apparent when you turn the piece over, peering through the exhibition case back you notice the large column wheel with an integrated automatic winding system. There it sits, showing just what a challenge the Arnold & Son research and development team had in creating a piece with high frequency tourbillon, chronograph and an automatic winding system in way that was technically advanced and yet in keeping with the elegant look, which they did by designing a new calibre and totally disregarded the traditional layout.

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In keeping with Arnold & Son tradition and heritage the new Calibre 8305 is meticulously finished with each palladium treated part featuring manually chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and exquisite Côte de Genève rayonnantes. The chronograph levers are satin finished and again hand-chamfered with polished edges, each screw is lovingly blued with mirror polished heads. All of that in my opinion pales in contrast to the totally stunning 22-carat red gold rotor which has been skeletonised with its hand-engraved brushed surfaces and polished edges which truly takes your breath away.

Finishing of the piece is a hand stitched either black or brown alligator strap.

Technical Specifications

  • Calibre: A&S8305
  • Exclusive Arnold & Son mechanical movement, self-winding, column-wheel, ceramic ball bearing, 30 jewels, diameter 35.00 mm, thickness 8.15 mm, power reserve 55 h, 28,800 vibrations/h
  • Functions: hours, minutes, tourbillon, chronograph
  • Movement decoration: palladium treated with Haute Horlogerie finishing: hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, all chronograph levers are satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges, circular satin-finished wheels, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads.
    Tourbillon: stainless steel tourbillon-barrette, satin-finished with hand-chamfered and polished edges. Hand-chamfered tourbillon cage with mirror-polished top bridge.
    Oscillating weight: hand-engraved 22-carat red gold, skeletonized with brushed surfaces and chamfered polished edges.
  • Dial: black guilloché
  • Case: palladium 950, diameter 45 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, see-through sapphire case back, water-resistant to 30 m
  • Strap: hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather
  • Limited edition: 125 timepieces
  • Reference: 1CTAG.U02A.C113G

Conclusion

This is truly beautiful with the seemingly floating tourbillon appearing like a full moon shining brightly in the sky lighting up the dark of the night, Arnold & Son have produced a piece of true haute horology with breath-taking engraved movement this is pure horology at its finest an I for one take my hat off to them. For more info, please visit arnoldandson.com

The Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton is the most recent addition to the DBG (Double-Balance GMT) set that we reviewed the first, non-skeletonized version of in greater detail back in 2013. For those unfamiliar with this particular piece, it’s basically two motions which share a winding platform, housed in one watch. Skeletonized, this watch looks incredible and is the best example of Arnold & Son’s relentless progress.First, a tiny bit more about Arnold & Son’s DBG system. Every time display is powered by its own barrel, with its gear train, escapement, and equilibrium, while sharing a single winding system. Even though this isn’t always unprecedented, because of the offsets of the shared components compared to the individual components, it isn’t always pretty, and rarely skeletonized. But with the DBG Skeleton, we see almost perfect symmetry about the dial and caseback.The unusual nature of the in-house A&S1309 movement allows for a few added mechanical and functional benefits. For instance, because of the separate socket, gear train, and escapement/balance, the GMT function includes a “minutes” hand rather than the conventional 24-hour counter just. Every time zone display from the Arnold & Son DBG Skeleton can be set to incremental quarters of this hour. So for a few Indian, Australian, and Canadian time zones that are off by half-hours, for example, the watch can account for that. Additionally, the Equation of Time screen at 12 o’clock decides the gap between each display, as well as whether it is night or day in the next time zone. The A&S1309 defeats at 21,600bph and features a 40-hour power book.

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John Galt – Contributing Editor

John Galt caught the horology bug back in 2010 on his first visit to a London watch show and has snowballed since; John has become an avid writer and blogger of timepieces of all kinds, from everyday timepieces to modern Luxury Haute Horology, his favorite brands being HYT and Greubel Forsey that push the bounders of modern watch-making. John keeps a keen interest in the UK watch scene with their many emerging brands and timepiece’s. John Galt currently contributes watch related articles for online publications in the UK and USA. You can follow John on Twitter @johng73 Read his articles here.

Arnold & Son UTTE (Ultra Thin Tourbillon Escapement) 2014 Perfect Clone Online Shopping


By Osheen Arakelian

Arnold & Son one of the most prestigious horological houses in England has released 2 new variants of their UTTE ultra-thin tourbillon wristwatch. The UTTE is part of Arnold & Son’s Instrument Collection and is known for its amazingly thin tourbillon and off centre dial design. The UTTE is easily recognizable when you look at the face with the use of an off centre hours and minutes design with the tourbillon sitting just underneath it, making up the rest of the face. The 2 new models have the same dial design but are finished using 2 different case materials. The palladium version is light grey and silvery opaline while the red-gold version is made of 18-caret gold finished in a white dial with a silver hue.

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The most impressive feature of the UTTE has always been the ultra-thin movement that is world-renowned as being one of the thinnest wristwatches ever produced. The result of several years of research and development, it boasts some impressive features and is truly a work of art.

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The movement is just 2.97mm thick and is housed inside an 8.34mm thick case, meaning it also houses one of the thinnest tourbillon movements as well (truly an impressive achievement). Also, the size of the tourbillon cage makes a big statement on the dial measuring in at a mammoth 14mm in size, which covers almost half of the dial. The movement itself is the exclusive Calibre A&S8200 ultra-thin hand-wound movement with 29 jewels an over 90-hour power reserve. All the movements are created in either 18-carat red-gold or palladium and finished in a colour that compliments the case colour with a different Cotes de Genève pattern to finish it off (we’re all a sucker for detailing let’s be honest). Also, the Tourbillon Bridge is entirely hand-engraved by a master engraver, which adds that extra detailing and really shows off the workmanship that goes into every piece.

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The rest of the watch features what you would expect to find in such a high-end luxury wristwatch with sapphire crystal and anti-reflective coating used on both sides of the case along with hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather choice of strap.

Beautiful additions to the already impressive Instrument Collection by Arnold & Son, the UTTE oozes elegance and class that only a company like Arnold & Son can provide. For more info, please visit arnoldandson.com

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Product Specifications

  • Calibre: A&S8200
  • Exclusive Arnold & Son ultra-thin tourbillon movement, one-minute flying tourbillon, hand-wound, 29 jewels, diameter 32 mm, thickness 2.97 mm, tourbillon cage diameter 14mm, power reserve over 90 h, 21,600 vibrations/h
  • Functions: hours, minutes, tourbillon
  • Movement decoration: 18-carat red gold case model: nickel-silver movement, rhodium treated with Haute Horlogerie
  • Skeletonizing a watch is not an easy feat. And it is doubly difficult for an ultra-thin movement, mainly because the motion is already so sparse that removing any more substance is bound to influence structural rigidity. Because of this, the A&S8200 calibre from the Arnold & Son UTTE Skeleton watch needed to be completely redesigned and re-engineered. The result is that the A&S8220 calibre, which measures 3.3mm thick. The extra thickness, according to Arnold & Son, is imperative to ensure rigidity as they hunted to skeletonized the movement. Still, let us face it, 3.3mm for a tourbillon motion with two barrels and a power reserve of 90 hours is seriously impressive.The new A&S8220 calibre boasts a few major revisions. As an example, the principal plate was heavily altered to reveal as much as you can of the inner workings. But perhaps what’s most visible to owners is that the tourbillon cage has been totally reworked to show off more of the mechanism when retaining the three-dimensional design which has become a signature of this sooner Arnold & Son UTTE watch. Additionally, the tourbillon cage is relatively large when compared with the movement. This implies it is the single most dominating component of the dial, and in addition to this is the simple fact that the crate is fully hand-polished and chamfered, making it a true visual treat for owners.And because you would anticipate, the A&S8220 calibre can also be treated to the finest haute horlogerie completing: The main plate and bridges are constructed using nickel silver and completed with C?tes de Genève rayonnantes; The borders will also be polished and chamfered; The steel components, components, and ratchets are all satin-finished with their edges polished and chamfered; The screws have bevelled and polished heads, and ultimately, the stones are placed in polished countersinks; Reading of the period is done off a sapphire disk with printed numerals at 12 o’clock; The hour and minute hands are golden and characteristic white lacquered hints.

Finishing: unique hand-engraved tourbillon bridge, hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève rayonnantes, circular satin-finished wheels with hand-chamfered and polished edges, blued screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. Tourbillon cage: satin-finish with chamfered and polished edges.

  • Movement decoration: palladium case model: nickel-silver movement, NAC grey treated with Haute Horlogerie

Finishing: hand-chamfered bridges with polished edges, fine circular graining and Côtes de Genève, circular satin-finished wheels with hand-chamfered and polished edges, screws with bevelled and mirror-polished heads. Tourbillon cage: satin-finish with chamfered and polished edges.

  • Dial: silvery-white and silvery opaline / light-grey and silvery opaline
  • Case: 18-carat red-gold / palladium, diameter 42 mm, cambered sapphire with anti-reflective coating on both sides, case back see-through sapphire, water-resistant to 30m
  • Strap: hand-stitched black or brown alligator leather
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Osheen Arakelian – Contributing Writer

Drawing on a lifelong love of horology and a more recent introduction to appreciation of fine whisky, Osheen brought the two together with watch & whisky. He is proprietor of the site, which covers everything related to watches and whisky. In between completing a degree in commercial law and supporting a rich social life, he is out and about attending all the latest watch and whisky events Sydney has to offer. His passion has also taken him around Australia attending a number of events and he hopes to continue his career in the watch industry on a more serious level after he graduates. Read his articles here.